Posts mit dem Label Mekong werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Mekong werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Mittwoch, 20. Mai 2015

A Passage to Pakxe

My next destination was Pakxe which lies about seven hours by bus farther south of Thakek. As the road wasn't anything close to the Mekong so I could watch the river en route, I decideded for a night coach which left Thakek around 8 in the evening and arrived about 4 in the morning. The bus driver dropped me off on what he said was near downtown, and, despite the early hour several Tuk Tuk drivers were waiting for passengers. One of them took me to the guesthouse I had picked, and a sleepy clerk without opening his eyes much let me check in to get some sleep which  I needed badly after a rather uncomfortable trip without much sleep.
Pakxe is the capital of Champasak Province, and in the old days was part of the Cambodian Angkor empire. Vat Phou near the town of Champasak is the most striking relic of this time. Today Pakxe encompasses the southern Mekong region of Laos.
Pakxe retains the Mekong River-town lethargy and slightly  morbid charm found in Thakek further north but lacks the tourist infrastructure of the latter. Only few derelict colonial era buildings remain, and while I was there the whole downtown area seemed a huge building site with rubble, and open roads and sidewalks everywhere. The town itself has not many attractions but is an ideal base from where to explore the surrounding attractions like 4000 islands in the Mekong, Vat Phou and the Bolaven Plateau with its coffee and tea plantations spectacular waterfalls, minority tribes and weaving villages not to forget its beautiful rural scenery

A monk passes the old school building of Wat Luang Pakse. In the background the big new school


At Pakxe the Se Done River to the right meets the Mekong River in the background


A small market near the riverfront for the trading of livestock. These baskets hold pigs of all sizes


At the fresh market of Pakxe a wealth of local products are for sale. This woman sells mushrooms which are an essential ingredient in many Lao dishes


Fresh from the nearby farms. Poultry is an important part in many Lao dishes



Fish is of course a major source of food for the people along the Mekong. A catch is piled on the floor and sprinkled with water every once in a while


This woman prepares bark. I could not find out whether they are used for cooking or not. However, in the far North of Lao a specific bark is added to soups for a distinct flavour


A floating riverside restaurant at dawn


The Bolaven Plateau is home to numerous waterfalls, the Tad Fan waterfall being one of the most spectacular ones


A pig rifles through the grounds of Tha Taeng village. This village is home to the minority tribes of Alak, Nge and Ka Tu. Families with up to 60 members live in one house



A girls smokes her bamboo pipe. Tobacco is filled into the bowl made from an empty can that is fitted to a long bamboo stem. She was smoking constantly while I was there and no one seemed to care although she was not more than about 13 years old


A suspension bridge crosses Van Ngao River near Phasuam waterfall. Note the basalt columns that flank the river

The building of the Chinese Association of Pakxe. One of the better kept historic buildings in town


Sonntag, 1. Februar 2015

From Chiang Khan to Pak Chom and Sang Khom- All Along the Mekong


Chiang Khan is an old river trading port in northeast Thailand. The town is perched on the south banks of the Mae Nam Khong (Mekong River) 580 kilometers north of Bangkok. Chiang Khan's main attraction is Srichiangkhan Road, a kilometre of century old, two-storey teak shop houses nowadays turned into souvenir shops, restaurants, guesthouses and makeshift foodstalls plus a handfull of fine, old Buddhist temples.
My upstairs room in the Drama Guesthouse on Srichiangkhan Road Soi 16 is an airy chamber, with a bed, a sewing machine stand turned into desk, and no wardrobe and a shared bathroom, but perfect wi-fi.Very Thai. From a small balcony I have a perfect view of the passers by and a small stretch of the Mekong, a mere stone's throw away. The owner is a movie enthusiast, and has turned the building into a bizarre museum for bygone movie heroes and cinema paraphernalia. 
Chiang Khan has boomed in the past couple of years. It has well and truly been 'discovered' by urban Thais, although not by 'farang'- I have seen fewer than a handful of foreigners in a couple of days. There is not much to do for visitors except to hire a bicycle or motorcycle, view the buddhist temples, have a foot massage, or to simply stroll, eat and drink by the river...and visit more dusty villages that languorously stretch along the Mekong. 


Srichiangkhan Road just off the Mekong waterfront is a colourful mixture of dwellings, shops, guesthouses and makeshift foodstalls that attract mostly Thai visitors.


Paragliding over the  River Mekong at dawn, Chiang Khan


Monks on their morning alms round on Srichiangkhan Road, Chiang Khan


Woman chatting with her neighbour. Chiang Khan



Front view of the Drama Guesthouse, Chiang Khan Srichiangkhan Road Soi 16


Peculiar interior decor of the Drama Guesthouse, Chiang Khan Srichiangkhan Road Soi 16


Foreman of a group of dock workers loading a cargo ship. The freight is shipped across the river to Lao

Quaint dwelling at the riverbank above the Mekong, Chiang Khan


Detail of a group of 'Loei dancing ghosts' masks on the riverbank near Chiang Khan


Schoolchildren enjoying their lunchtime by the riverside, Chiang Khan


Leaf gilding of balls at Wat Tha Kaek, Chiang Khan. No one could explain to me what they mean

Peaceful scenery above the Mekong riverbank with my hired bike and a chair near Chiang Khan

Chiang Khan's Srichiangkhan Road at dusk. Holidaymakers are out for food and some late shopping

Sportsmen enjoy a fresh evening breeze along the Mekong waterfront in Chiang Khan


View over the River Mekong near Pak Chom just after sunset


A woman prepares delicious paperthin waffles on a makeshift stove, Chiang Khan


Two rocks shaped like giant penisses are neatly decorated in front of a temple outside Chiang Khan


Astonishing works of natural force or of mythical creatures ?


Peaceful scenery at the banks of the River Mekong where people watch the Laotian shore which is a mere stone's throw away


Small islets and sandbanks are typical for the Mekong between Pak Chom and Sang Khom