Sonntag, 12. Juli 2015

Krong Khemara Phoumin alias Koh Kong City


Koh Kong is the southwesternmost province of Cambodia with Krong Khemara Phoumin being its capital.  It is one of the biggest and least spoilt provinces in Cambodia with a long undeveloped coastline and a mountainous, forested and largely inaccessible interior which embraces part of the Cardamom Mountains, a large coherent rainforest area. The province's tourist attractions are wildlife, waterfalls and untouched rivers. Koh Kong Island, Cambodias largest island,  and above all a protected mangrove tidal forest  measuring 24 thousand hectares.The capital of this little traveled province  is usually referred to as Koh Kong City, only rarely its official name is used. It is perched between the Ka Bpow, Prek Kaoh Yar and Sale Monthon rivers and the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains, a vast sandstone plateau covered with dense forests. Its population amounts to some  30 thousend people who make their living as farmers, fishermen, traders with the nearby Thailand and, increasingly as tour operators to the mountains, the vast mangrove areas and to Koh Kong Island about an hour boatride off the coast. Although this low pace provincial town has some of the best natural attractions Cambodia offers, it is, all in all, not a tourist destination for western travelers but mainly a transit point from Thailand into other provinces of Cambodia or to Thailand. While only very few stay for more than one or two nights, it is becoming increasingly popular with Cambodian holiday makers -and Thais who come to gamble in the casino near the border.  It has a very unique way of living, which is not focused around foreign travelers or large expat communities. Nevertheless, this small town boasts of an astonishing number of  hotels and guesthouses, so there is never a shortage of accomodation for those willing to plunge into Cambodian country life.


Stilt house above the waters of the Ka Bpow River estuary and mangroves. The river flows into the nearby Gulf of Thailand


During the hot daytime hours this place under a shady tree near the port authority's office is a meeting point for local vendors. Then, each night, at dusk it turns into an open air bar for the tiny expat community and locals alike


 Two men catch a cool breeze on a wooden jetty off the riverfront of Koh Kong City


 Fishermen moor their vessels to the small main jetty of the port


I met this group of monks at Bak Klong Beach about 10 km outside Koh Kong City. They had come all the way from Pnom Penh to enjoy a day by the sea. This man is drying his robe in the warm seabreeze

After their swim the monks take a rest on rustic benches of one of the few simple fish shacks that line the beach


There is a specific way how the robe must be folded before it can be put on again. Two of the monks watch carefuly how this is done


There where no other visitors, and, when the monks had gone, except for the restaurant owners I was left alone on this solitary beach. We had a nice chat and a few Angkor beers, and after a relaxed afternoon I pedalled back to town

A woman is bathing her baby in a bucket. They live in a very modest hut not far from Bak Klong beach

I saw this 'nouveau riche' building a few kilometers outside Koh Kong City on the solitary road to Bak Klong Beach. Homes with spectacular fronts are very popular with well-to-do people throughout the town

Another example of a fancy home. It is located on National Road 48 west of downtown Koh Kong City

A motocart on National Road 48 heading to the so called Buddha Monument, Pyam


Countless spirit houses dot the woods around an isolated temple at the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains east of Koh Kong City


A stunning view of the Prek Kaoh Yar and Ka Bpow Rivers estuary and the vast mangrove tidal flats seen from the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains some 10 km east of town. I pedalled there, but was stopped by a heavy tropical monsoon downpour

A wedding ceremony takes place in a curbside wedding tent mounted on Koh Kong City's main road 'Street 3', while two caterers on their moto trishaw wait to deliver


A local transport boat in the mangrove forest near Koh Kapik Ramsar Bird Sanctuary Station. It forms part of the greater Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary, a main attraction of the region


In order to foster eco tourism, and to prevent the mangroves being destroyed for shrimp farms, local folks had started to build very comfortable cabins with all the amenities of the modern world right into the mud flats. Sadly, none of the 30 or so cabins had been fully completed yet, but were already in a state of abandon and decay.


Local fishermen have a chat near Koh Kapik Ramsar Bird Sanctuary before they move off


A backroad in the marshy hinterland of  Koh Kong City. To the right my red runner rental bike. Some of the roads are paved, but most of them are dirt roads


A man watches a fishing vessel moored to a dilapidated wooden jetty at the  Port of Koh Kong


In the early morning hours a large number of fishermen started the repair works of the jetty. The construction material is found right on the beach


A woman crosses the Ka Bpow River at low tide in front of Kon Chang Shrine that sits on top of a rock. The backdrop shows the western riverfront of Koh Kong City


Two school girls hurry up to reach their school which lies behind this portal further down the road. There, still further away is a temple and a sculpture park known as 'Buddhist Hell' by local folks


A sandstone rock formation near the 'Buddhist Hell' on the shores of Ka Bpow River. These rocks principally form the Cardamom Mountains further afield


Detail of a sculpture of the 'Buddhist Hell' Park. They are made from concrete but show astonoshingly distinct features. This character awaits to be stabbed by a tormentor


A group of women of the sculpture park


An abondened entertainment center in the outskirts of Koh Kong City


Three men work on an iron gate in front of a small paintshop. They embellish the tips with golden paint

Eating shacks on stilts like these are very popular in Koh Kong, no wonder when you get a view like this for free. The scene shows the Ka Bpow River and the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains as a backdrop


A stone park at the Ka Bpow riverfront in Koh Kong City. This place comes alive at dusk and is very popular with locals for selfies and family pictures


Modest stilt homes along waterways are still a common sight even in downtown Koh Kong City


The skyline of Koh Kong City seen from the eastern shore of Ka Bpow River. The river is about two kms wide

A man crosses a bridge over one of the numerous inflows into the Ka Bpow estuary in the western hinterland of Koh Kong City


Tidal marshland just outside the town of Koh Kong. The monsoon season had just set in


Detail of a typical fishing vessel on the Ka Bpow River. After dark they set out onto the dark waters of the river


This man sells crisp fried shrimp cakes on the main jetty of Koh Kong City. The port is tiny, but every day fishing vessels move in and out


The vast and empty mud flats of the marshy hinterland are a paradise for water buffaloes. This bull dries the mud on his back in the hot afternoon sun


At a first look this is a beach lovers dream. Dazzling finest white sand, a few clouds in an otherwise blue sky, warm shallow waters and not a soul around in miles


but sadly, at a closer look you'll find all the leftovers of the modern world washed ashore, or dropped by occasional unaware visitors.


Among all the human made trash, the dead body of this beautiful sea snake (Hydrophis Gracilis?)


At night, Street 1 that runs along the riverfront comes alive. Countless rolling food carts are set up as people gather to eat, chat and enjoy the cool evening breeze from the river


Local folks have a picnic in the park along the riverfront. That's the only sort of entertainment Koh Kong City has to offer - oh, I forgot the karaoke bars

Samstag, 30. Mai 2015

Pandemonium City Phnom Penh



My next destination on my journey along the Mekong was Phnom Phen. I left Kratie around seven in the morning. I had booked two seats in a minivan as some companies put two passengers on one seat and that can be very uncomfortable. With enough legroom I had a pleasant trip till we arrived in Phnom Penh around noon. The van stopped near the Central Market. Traffic was chaotic, and we were greeted by a dozen of Tuk Tuk drivers all of them noisily offering their services. After checking in at a hotel that happened to be on one of the downtown bar streets and only two blocks away from the river, I walked out for a first look at my new neighbourhood.
Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia. It is a mixture of Cambodian hospitality, Asian exotica Indochinese charm, and probably also the trash capital of the world. It is set at the confluence of three great rivers the Tonle Sap, and  the Bassac rivers and the Mekong River. It is a city of more than two million people countless Tuk Tuk and Moto Dops (motocycle taxis), cyclos and cars. Many of the sights are in the old central city where one also notices classic French colonial buildings amongst the Southeast Asian shophouses, pagodas and markets. As anywhere in Cambodia and Southeast Asia it has four seasons. Cool and dry from November to February, hot and dry from March to May, hot and rainy from June to August and cool and rainy from September to October. There is a hop on-hop off tour bus that circles past all the major in-city attractions. Many of these attractions in the central city are in walkable distance, but if the heat is on it is wise to use a Tuk Tuk even for shorter distances. During my days in town,  the heat was real impressive.


A roadside restaurant near Kampong Cham. Drivers know where to stop for a good meal


During a stopover a man takes care of his cock by spraying water from his mouth under the animal's wings to cool it down


The embankment of the Tonle Sap River at Sisowath Quay Phnom Penh shortly before its confluence with the Mekong River

Block 'C' of the infamous Tuol Sleng prison in the heart of Phnom Phenh. It was a secondary school before it was turned into a prison by the Pol Pot clique in 1975. Thousands of victims were imprisoned, tortured, exterminated, and deported to Choeung Ek some 15 km south of Phnom Penh which was one of the 300 'Killing Fields' all over Cambodia. The front of the building is covered with dense barbed wire so as to prevent the victims from committing suicide by jumping from the top


Workers overlook the skyline of Phnom Penh from a new highrise


View from the Cambodia Foreigner's Club (FCC) to Sisowath Quay and Tonle Sap River with the Japanese Bridge as a backdrop. The club was a meeting point for foreign journalists in the wild 1990s


Two men have a game of snooker in the  FCC


Phnom Penh at night, with old French colonial era buildings giving it a nostalgic bygone charm


View from Sisowath Quay across Tonle Sap River to the Mekong Island and a new hotel


A woman sits on the sidewalk preparing flower offerings


View from the late King Norodom Sihanouk's Monument over Neak Banh Teuk Park


'Tiger' my friendly Tuk Tuk driver. He took me around Phnom Penh. Apart from the major tourist sites he showed me where to get the best home-roasted coffee in town. He usually waits in front of the Queen Wood Hotel on 75.St 136.


Sunset cruises are a popular end-of-the-day event in Phnom Penh. This boat heads down the Tonle Sap River who joins the Mekong River just a few hundred meters further down.


Typically, Tuk Tuk drivers wait for potential clients in front of hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, bars and elsewhere. These three lads shorten their waiting time with a deck of cards


A barber's shop with fashion magazine publicity and their logo which is strikingly similar to a truck company's trademark


Typical Phnom Penh downtown street, with parked motorcycles on every square meter of available space


A moment of tranquility on  V.P.Chah Peachea Street


 A man collects empty cans and plastic bottles. The trash situation of the city is terrible


Normal chaotic traffic situation in downtown Phnom Penh. No rules. Park pass and push in whenever you can


Sidewalk shop in downtown Phnom Penh. This pile of merchandise is set up every morning on the sidewalk and removed when the shop closes


Drab backyard alleys like this one can be found almost anywhere in the city center